Wow…hard to believe you finished recounting these incredible stories of your friends and the year you pushed each other to surf tougher locales and support each other through it. Proud of you that you will self-publish and I already know of four people who will receive your book from me. I am sad this is done as each chapter was a gift to this ocean lover!
If I could wish anything for you, it would be that you keep writing. Your skill improved with each chapter and you have a way of seeing people from the inside out that is charming. A great ride, Mark, thank you!
thanks for bringing us along for the ride on a heapin’ helpin’ of wonderful storytelling. Your writing style reminds me of the Thomas McGuane, etc., greats, where the ego and id are essential characters in the story. Wow, what a gift! Enjoy it and the surf, Bum.
Keep at it Mark, both surfing and writing. At 73 I am still fit enough to surf but am still struggling to get it back together after my hip replacement. I still manage to get a good one now and then so will keep at it. That was great advice you got. I went the same way, I taught for 2 years after graduation then spent the next 5 surfing and travelling, making some money from magazine work and the rest from relief teaching. No regrets at all. I am spending 4-5 hours a day writing at the moment and will post another excerpt soon.
Wow, Mark. I figured there would be more chapters, and now, the end. I'm really sorry your good friends checked out early. It is really hard to lose our great friends. I'm so glad you just did it though--you guys made it work, and you kinda did the compact version of Endless Summer. Searching for that big wave, turned on the juice and just went for it. I'll have to check back to earlier chapters as I caught you late in the game. Glad you had the time and inclination to put it down in writing. That's a biggie. Aloooooha, brah. PS kinda sweet to end it on Valentine's Day.
Very welcome! PS if you ever want to have a Hawaii kind of day, Hula by Jasmin Iolani Hakes is incredible. To say ‘da kine’ doesn’t even cover it. You’d get it, having lived there. One of the best on-island books I’ve read yet.
That brought a tear to my eye, Mark. I thoroughly enjoyed these stories and you are such a wonderful storyteller that I felt like I was right there with you and your colorful friends. Great job!
Wow…hard to believe you finished recounting these incredible stories of your friends and the year you pushed each other to surf tougher locales and support each other through it. Proud of you that you will self-publish and I already know of four people who will receive your book from me. I am sad this is done as each chapter was a gift to this ocean lover!
If I could wish anything for you, it would be that you keep writing. Your skill improved with each chapter and you have a way of seeing people from the inside out that is charming. A great ride, Mark, thank you!
thanks for bringing us along for the ride on a heapin’ helpin’ of wonderful storytelling. Your writing style reminds me of the Thomas McGuane, etc., greats, where the ego and id are essential characters in the story. Wow, what a gift! Enjoy it and the surf, Bum.
Thanks so very much. I still have another 40 years of stories to keep writing about. Just nothing like that year. Mind blowing.
Keep at it Mark, both surfing and writing. At 73 I am still fit enough to surf but am still struggling to get it back together after my hip replacement. I still manage to get a good one now and then so will keep at it. That was great advice you got. I went the same way, I taught for 2 years after graduation then spent the next 5 surfing and travelling, making some money from magazine work and the rest from relief teaching. No regrets at all. I am spending 4-5 hours a day writing at the moment and will post another excerpt soon.
Really can't wait to read yours. Thanks....
Congratulations on finishing! It's quite an accomplishment. I admit I'm still several chapters behind. I'll catch up.
Thank you very much....
Wow, Mark. I figured there would be more chapters, and now, the end. I'm really sorry your good friends checked out early. It is really hard to lose our great friends. I'm so glad you just did it though--you guys made it work, and you kinda did the compact version of Endless Summer. Searching for that big wave, turned on the juice and just went for it. I'll have to check back to earlier chapters as I caught you late in the game. Glad you had the time and inclination to put it down in writing. That's a biggie. Aloooooha, brah. PS kinda sweet to end it on Valentine's Day.
Thank you so much
Very welcome! PS if you ever want to have a Hawaii kind of day, Hula by Jasmin Iolani Hakes is incredible. To say ‘da kine’ doesn’t even cover it. You’d get it, having lived there. One of the best on-island books I’ve read yet.
That brought a tear to my eye, Mark. I thoroughly enjoyed these stories and you are such a wonderful storyteller that I felt like I was right there with you and your colorful friends. Great job!
Thank you sister! My first subscriber and you can't even imagine how you have motivated me to go on. Still have to publish it.
Are you going to self publish?
I really like the idea of doing the whole thing myself. The art of making a book, not only writing it.